Tutorial

Right side, wrong side

I was looking at a well known crochet book the other day and I noticed that a very pretty blanket had been photographed with the wrong side showing. I thought to myself, ‘I bet the designer was really frustrated with that image’. Then it occurred to me that in many ways this was a compliment to the person who made the blanket, the right side and the wrong side were obviously difficult to tell apart.

Now I admit that you need to be a fairly seasoned crocheter to know the wrong side from the right side. The benefit of crochet is that usually the pattern is inter-changeable. This is only possible if you get all your ends neatly tucked away and you take as much care with the neatness of all aspects of your work.

Final touches

The very best craftspeople take proper care of the final touches. I once saw the Queen’s coronation dress displayed in Kensington Palace. What struck me was the detail of the embroidery. Such perfection. The very best haute courture dresses cost so very much because every detail, every stitch is finished by a seamstress of great mastery.

I am not wanting to burst your fun bubble with crochet or knitting. I know that loads of you just want to create and make…’Finishing – Pah!’, you cry, ‘What’s next on the hook baby?’

But after a while the WIP’s (works in progress) pile up and you will need to spend some serious time with the tapestry needle and a pair of scissors to ensure that pile of mid-made monstrosities make their way heavenly heirlooms.

Good things take time

My advice, for what is worth is to learn to love this last part of the making process. See it as the icing on the cake. I wrote about the ‘Blocking’ process a couple of weeks ago and it would be worth having a small look at this. But before you block it is always best to weave in your ends.

The equipment

I always have a pair of very sharp, small, pointed scissors to hand. These will give you accuracy when you cut. I have a range of tapestry needles, different size eyes for different thickness wool. But if I am honest I do like a sharp point so I can weave in the yarn through the fibres.

Backwards and forwards

When you crochet it is possible to capture the last end you have cut in your next row. But weaving in as you stitch will never fully make your ends secure. I speak to you now from bitter experince. I have many unraveled projects. Crochet motifs that have begun to look a little worse for wear.

My recent conclusion based on some research and practice is to ensure it end is woven backwards and forwards three times. This will ensure the end will not budge. What it does mean is that if you have already captured your work once in the following crochet row, you can just weave in a following two times.

Handy Hints

When I add in a new yarn colour I have begun with placing the new yarn with a slip knot on my hook and then begin my first stitch. This seems to work for me and I have had fewer unraveling incidents.

I do take time to check how each side looks when I have finished weaving in the ends. I make sure that my yarn has not popped out and made an unwelcome appearance on the right side.

If you are wanting to be geeky – I love an in depth book or manual, then the book Finishing School (Master Class for Knitters) has some excellent tips which work both for knitting and crochet.

If you have a granny square that has begun to unravel then I would also suggest look at a fabulous article Granny Square Repair by Claire Montgomerie. She guides you through how to repair the centre of an unraveling motif, my worst crochet nightmare.

Once you have finished all the weaving in, then blocking will help bind the fibres together.

Look I have no desire to sound like a nagging crochet aunty. But really this blog is about providing you with encouragement to take a little time, have a little patience. Dance like there is no instagram – create as if it will last forever.

The images I have used in this post have been taken from the  ‘wrong side’. If you have any finishing top-tips you would be willing to share, then please leave a comment below. I would love to learn from you.

 

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I got very excited on Friday. My new Blocking Board arrived. A new bit of crochet technical kit. I have spied this board on the internet and have desired to have my own for a while.

‘Blocking, what on earth and why?’,  I hear you cry. Well if I am ever at a workshop, trade fair or interviewed by a magazine, and they say; ‘What is your top tip?’. My answer is always; Blocking.

Beginners and seasoned crocheters alike avoid blocking their work and it is easy to see why.  If you have just finished a garment or a beautiful blanket you are impatient to show off your finished piece and then start your next project.

But once you have invested in yarn and spent so many dedicated hours finishing your project, there is nothing more crushing than a blanket that looks more at home in a dog basket than displayed proudly on your sofa. Blocking make an enormous difference to your finished projects, and many crocheters will testify to the fact that once you start you never go back to your old impatient ways. .

Blocking

During the making process the fibres of the yarn can often become crumpled and creased. By blocking your work, the fibres can relax, the stitches become regular and your can set your finished piece to the measurements you require.

There a number of techniques which can be used and dependent on the project you can choose different options. Obviously toys, amigurumi, bags and coasters do not need to be blocked. Items like lace shawls, scarves and blankets should be ‘hard’ blocked. Garments can either be wet blocked or steam blocked. In all cases the items need to be wet enough to so that the fibres relax and you can re-shape them into their final position.

Blocking – what do I use?

Well I have just bought this lovely new board from Daisy Boo Creations. I make quite a few Granny Squares and this board will enable me to stack a number of squares in exactly the same shape on these wooden dowels.

Firstly do check the ball band to ensure that you can get the yarn wet. I then dampen the square using a waterspray, which you can buy from most supermarkets. I will then pin out the square to the size and shape you need.

Now bear in mind I have been crocheting for many years and make very many projects. You don’t need to invest in blocking boards;. Small projects can be easily blocked on an ironing board. Another really practical idea is using kid’s foam play mats, these link together and can form a really large blocking area for big blankets or garments. I will continue to use my Prym Tensioning and Steamer Mat
which I notice even John Lewis are stocking now. This has a printed grid line system which is really helpful for garment blocking and granny squares.

How to block

Take your project and lay it on you blocking surface. Start at one corner and pin gradually along the edges, gently pulling the crochet into place and securing with a pin. As you work around the edge of the piece, you might notice that you have pulled one area more taut than another, simply remove the pins and reshape. Once you are happy with the overall dimensions, spray it all over with tepid water. Leave to dry.

Wet blocking

Many designers wet block their garments as the process fully sets the seams together and it is the process which will be used every time the garment is washed. Soak the item in a little lukewarm water, you can add a little no-rinse wool wash and leave for around 20 minutes. Then drain your sink and very gently squeeze out the water, but do not wring the garment. Ensure that you scoop your item out of the sink and do not hang it out as this will stretch the fibres. Lay the garment between two towels and gently roll the towels up to remove as much of the excess water as possible. You can then lay your item out on your blocking surface and gently pin it out into the measurements you require.

Steam blocking

This is a slightly faster version of the process above, and is good for removing persistent creases from garments. Lay your crochet out on the blocking surface and use a steam iron or garment steamer to allow the hot steam to permeate the fibres. Make sure you don’t let the iron touch the crochet, because it will easily flatten textured stitches and totally ruin any acrylic yarn, making the crochet limp and lifeless.

In all cases of blocking, make sure the crochet is totally dry, ideally leave your work for 2 or three days if you can.

Essentially this is my top tip for all crocheters. It will make an enormous difference to your finished work. I promise you – you will thank me later.

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I have to tell you that it is great fun to see the video tutorials I recorded for Crochet Now Magazine up on You Tube. One of my favourite blanket making techniques is ‘Joining as you go’. By adding your Granny Squares or Hexagons as you make them – the blankets grow quickly and the making seems less daunting. Pop over to the You Tube channel if you fancy getting a technique update.